Any closing thoughts on the current state of surfing?
Since the proliferation of surf contests we have been getting further and further away from the original spirit of surfing. At first we were a bunch of misfits who wanted to be away from all the crap going on in society and just lead a simple life away from the landlubbers. It used to be that in order to be a real surfer you had to live a life of ‘less is better,’ one that didn't intrude on the environment. It wasn't about competition but rather sharing and trying to stay away from crowds and simply enjoy the beauty of creation. With contests came the idea of trying to bring crowds to the beach. With contests came the advent of dog-eat-dog positioning and the notion that it is alright to exploit the beaches and surf lifestyle for money.
Once it became acceptable to sell out for money and act like a rat in the lineup, the sportswear companies got involved and the money got bigger. Now nobody even remembers the kind of commitment and values it took to be a surfer. The kids are only learning to be as greedy as possible. The old philosophy of how to be a surfer was something credible and we could have been a strong force against those set on destroying the environment. Instead now we have these lazy wannabes buzzing the lineups in their jet skis and the media portrays this as cool. The guys who want to ride Jaws or Cortes Bank on skis have their place but the problem is too many guys are using them in 6-foot surf and polluting the line up with their fumes, wakes and greed.
And since it has become fashionable to be as greedy as possible, the pop out guys are back, trying to take over the world again with their mass-merchandising schemes. It sort of bugs me that they don't even touch the boards during production and yet they try to portray themselves as real grass roots. There are so many better ways to make big money if that is all they care about. If they don't like working on boards or are incapable of doing so, then they shouldn't do it and instead should become money grabbers in some other context. But to hold themselves out as surfers and to be promoting this crass mass market stuff as if they are doing surfing a favor, they add to the feeling I have about the dilution of the real spirit of surfing. Between them and the contests it’s become quite a different deal and I see no positive benefit. We have lost our souls and respectibility. We have become what we were trying to get away from.
Another example which illustrates the current state of surfing: Have you noticed how now when people paddle out into a line up of other surfers who’ve been out in the water before the new person, the new surfer inevitably paddles right by everyone to take the inside pole position? That used to get you a big slap and sent packing back to the beach with a lecture on having manners in the line up. Since in contests the biggest snake gets the prize, the new school feels justified in their rude, nonsensical approach. If they are so far back that they don't even make one wave, no matter, do the same thing again and again. It’s just an example of what would have been completely taboo before is now the only thing the kids are learning.
Also, have you noticed how often now kids come to the beach with a car load of buddies? How rare it is to see someone come to the beach by themselves? Used to be special to go surfing alone and try to find moments to commune with nature. Or at least if you entered the line up alone, guys in the line up might accept you as somebody who had a clue. Now its like if they go in a gang they can all be rude together so nobody can do much about it.
Anyway enough of the negative side of what now passes for surfers and surfing. In some ways things are better for the custom guys and there will always be a demand for a nice custom board. I have more orders than ever, however, after spending your whole life devoted to what was originally a beautiful, different style of life, it's kind of hard to see the sell out mentality completely diminish the foundation it continues to reap from. Well time to stop talking about it and paddle out.
Since the proliferation of surf contests we have been getting further and further away from the original spirit of surfing. At first we were a bunch of misfits who wanted to be away from all the crap going on in society and just lead a simple life away from the landlubbers. It used to be that in order to be a real surfer you had to live a life of ‘less is better,’ one that didn't intrude on the environment. It wasn't about competition but rather sharing and trying to stay away from crowds and simply enjoy the beauty of creation. With contests came the idea of trying to bring crowds to the beach. With contests came the advent of dog-eat-dog positioning and the notion that it is alright to exploit the beaches and surf lifestyle for money.
Once it became acceptable to sell out for money and act like a rat in the lineup, the sportswear companies got involved and the money got bigger. Now nobody even remembers the kind of commitment and values it took to be a surfer. The kids are only learning to be as greedy as possible. The old philosophy of how to be a surfer was something credible and we could have been a strong force against those set on destroying the environment. Instead now we have these lazy wannabes buzzing the lineups in their jet skis and the media portrays this as cool. The guys who want to ride Jaws or Cortes Bank on skis have their place but the problem is too many guys are using them in 6-foot surf and polluting the line up with their fumes, wakes and greed.
And since it has become fashionable to be as greedy as possible, the pop out guys are back, trying to take over the world again with their mass-merchandising schemes. It sort of bugs me that they don't even touch the boards during production and yet they try to portray themselves as real grass roots. There are so many better ways to make big money if that is all they care about. If they don't like working on boards or are incapable of doing so, then they shouldn't do it and instead should become money grabbers in some other context. But to hold themselves out as surfers and to be promoting this crass mass market stuff as if they are doing surfing a favor, they add to the feeling I have about the dilution of the real spirit of surfing. Between them and the contests it’s become quite a different deal and I see no positive benefit. We have lost our souls and respectibility. We have become what we were trying to get away from. Another example which illustrates the current state of surfing: Have you noticed how now when people paddle out into a line up of other surfers who’ve been out in the water before the new person, the new surfer inevitably paddles right by everyone to take the inside pole position? That used to get you a big slap and sent packing back to the beach with a lecture on having manners in the line up. Since in contests the biggest snake gets the prize, the new school feels justified in their rude, nonsensical approach. If they are so far back that they don't even make one wave, no matter, do the same thing again and again. It’s just an example of what would have been completely taboo before is now the only thing the kids are learning.
Also, have you noticed how often now kids come to the beach with a car load of buddies? How rare it is to see someone come to the beach by themselves? Used to be special to go surfing alone and try to find moments to commune with nature. Or at least if you entered the line up alone, guys in the line up might accept you as somebody who had a clue. Now its like if they go in a gang they can all be rude together so nobody can do much about it.
Anyway enough of the negative side of what now passes for surfers and surfing. In some ways things are better for the custom guys and there will always be a demand for a nice custom board. I have more orders than ever, however, after spending your whole life devoted to what was originally a beautiful, different style of life, it's kind of hard to see the sell out mentality completely diminish the foundation it continues to reap from. Well time to stop talking about it and paddle out.
